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where is gmack now? innersea discoveries expedition week 11

It has been an exciting week on the InnerSea Discoveries Expedition Click Links Below to read daily updates from Week 11 of the Trip:

July 10 - July 16, 2011

 

Sunday | July 10

“Kayaking, Sauntering, Kelp-Bugling”

Monday | July 11

"Totems, Plankton, Weather"

Tuesday | July 12

"Invertebrates and Our Sister-Ship"

Wednesday | July 13

"Phantasmagorical Seascapes"

Thursday |July 14

"Tidal Ebb & Flow"

Friday | July 15

"Killer Whales"

 

Saturday | July 16

"The Capitol City of Juneau"

 

 

Saturday | July 16

The Capitol City of Juneau

“Find your place on the planet, dig in and take responsibility from there.” --Gary Snyder

"If I were to choose the sights, the sounds, the fragrances I most would want to see and hear and smell--among all the delights of the open world--on a final day on earth, I think I would choose these: the clear, ethereal song of a white-throated sparrow singing at dawn; the smell of pine trees in the heat of the noon; the lonely calling of Canada geese; the sight of a dragon-fly glinting in the sunshine; the voice of a hermit thrush far in a darkening woods at evening; and--most spiritual and moving of sights--the white cathedral of a cumulus cloud floating serenely in the blue of the sky.  Edwin Way Teale, "On a Final Day"

Disembarkation day!

It’s off to many different destinations around the country for our guests. It is very tempting to take them up on their offers to stay if ever we visit their hometowns. Juneau is bustling this morning as we dock alongside the pier adjacent to large cruise ships and a float plane dock

A local tells me that the recent U.S. Census had between 5 and 6,000 people moving out of the capital city of Juneau, a drop from around 31,000 to 25k over the last 10 years.

Crew work hard in anticipation of another group that will board in less than 8 hours.

Saturday | July 9

“If I had influence with the good fairy who is supposed to preside over the christening of all children, I should ask that her gift to each child in the world be a SENSE OF WONDER so indestructible that it would last throughout life, as an unfailing antidote against boredom and disenchantments of later years, the sterile preoccupation with things that are artificial, the alienation from the sources of our strength.” --Rachel Carson

All of the M/V Wilderness Discoverer crew forms a line off of the ship on the dock and we shake hands, hug and express our fond farewells to passenger-guests. Folks are very thankful for the natural history interpretive talks I gave over the week. My favorite compliment was one that spread over the ship about a search engine like Google called “Greg-gle”. A guest explained: “Instead of finding an answer by Googling, we think the best way to get an answer is to Greg-gle a query. You were so full of amazing answers on a multitude of subjects.”

One passenger said I would make an amazing minister with my views on Nature. Another said that I was more than a PhD…that I must have several honorary degrees with all of my knowledge on a variety of subjects. An Aussie stated I should run for President and that I would be famous in all of Australia for my ice-swimming and imitation of a seal on an ice-berg.

My fellow colleagues get a boost from the many compliments they received for a job well done. Each one of us, with our outgoing personalities and the pride we take in our jobs, makes small-ship cruising a big hit in the cruise industry. We feel good in knowing that our new company is profitable, as we hear rumors that InnerSea Discoveries may be purchasing some new vessels for upcoming itineraries next year. Kudos to the home office for their expertise in choosing this itinerary and recruiting great guides and crew. We are all giving memories for a lifetime for our guests.

After preparing the ship for the next group of guests, we have about an hour to ourselves onshore for R&R or personal business. It is fun to see how busy this town can get with a huge cruise ship in port!

where is gmack now? innersea discoveries expedition week 10

It has been an exciting week on the InnerSea Discoveries Expedition Click Links Below to read daily updates from Week 10 of the Trip:

July 2 - July 9, 2011

 

Saturday | July 2

TURNOVER DAY = SWABBING THE DECKS

Sunday | July 3

GLACIER CALVING, SEALS & WHALES

Monday | July 4

HAPPY 4^TH OF JULY, EVERYBODY!

Tuesday | July 5

MOOSE PELLETS

Wednesday | July 6

CHIEF SHAKES LODGE

Thursday |July 7

SNORKELING AND BANJO PLAYING

Friday | July 8

CLAM-EATING BEAR

Saturday | July 9

“WE NEED THE GREGgle APP!”

 

 

Sunday | July 3rd

“Never before this had I been embosomed in scenery so hopelessly beyond description. Tracing shining ways through fjord and sound, past forests and waterfall, islands and mountains and far azure headlands, it seems as if surely we must at length have reached the very paradise of the poets, the abode of the blessed.” –John Muir

At 06:00 the anchor is lifted and the Wilderness Discoverer begins its journey up the 30-mile long Tracy Arm fiord. I like to tell folks that we are all taking a trip back 15,000 years to the Pleistocene Epoch to see what much of the northern latitudes on Earth were like at the southernmost extent of the Wisconsin era glaciation. Basically a person could strap on some skis and continue on ice from Tracy Arm south to present-day Olympia, Washington and head then head east to Cape Cod, Massachusetts.

Tracy Arm—Fords Terror was designated a wilderness area in 1980 with President Jimmy Carter’s passage of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA). Prior to this it had been designated a National Forest Scenic Area in 1960 and 10 years later a Wilderness Study Area in recognition of the opportunities for solitude and its dramatic beauty.

It was President Lyndon Johnson that signed the Wilderness Act in September of 1964.

It states: “In order to assure that an increasing population, accompanied by expanding settlement and growing mechanization, does not occupy and modify all areas within the United States and its possessions, leaving no lands designated for preservation and protection in their natural condition, it is hereby declared to be the policy of the Congress to secure for the American people of present and future generations the benefits of an enduring resource of wilderness.”

Everybody seems to appreciate being a visitor to this wilderness as they are out on decks to soak-in the scenery, admire ice-bers and to look for wildlife.

We offer small boat tours. Adventure-seekers enjoy close-up views of the Sawyer Glacier calving ice and the dramatic mountain scenery. I point out the waterfall, located 1.5 miles away from the face of the Sawyer Glacier. When I first started leading folks here in the early to mid-90’s, the glacier was close to this cataract.

People are amazed to see how far it has receded and how much thinning of the glacier has taken place. The barren rock and trim-line of vegetation high up above the recently de-glaciated rubble landscape are reminders of a changing climate.

Harbor seals are spotted on the ice “growlers” or brash ice. Some are seen with pups that were recently born. It takes 6-weeks before pups are weaned off of the mothers milk and are on their own to search for food.

Arctic terns ply the waters, catching schooling fish for their developing young that await in the rock gardens bordering the fiord. Gulls fly back an forth in front of the glacier waiting for the next calving that will churn-up small fish and shrimp for easy-pickings.

Our afternoon and evening is spent looking for and watching whales in Frederick Sound.

Where is gMack now? InnerSea Discoveries Expedition Week 9

It has been an exciting week on the InnerSea Discoveries Expedition Click Links Below to read daily updates from Week 9 of the Trip:

June 25 - July 1, 2011

 

Saturday | June 25th

Ketchikan

Sunday | June 26th

El Capitan Passage, Caves and the Oyster Pick-up

Monday | June 27th

Klawock and Sea Otter Sound

Tuesday | June 28th

Little Port Walter

Wednesday | June 29th

Patterson Bay:  Scat and Cataracts!

Thursday |June 30th

Frederick Sound

Friday | July 1st

The Green Flush and an Ice Swim

 

 

Sunday | June 26th

El Capitan Passage, Caves and Oyster Pick-up

I lead a couple of groups along the U.S. Forest Service trail to the caves. This is a great area to explain the hallmarks of a temperate rainforest, such as the presence of Sitka spruce, nurse logs, a profusion of mosses and ephiphytes, among others. We look at signs of a second growth forest such as trees of the same age and height class that grow so thick that sunlight cannot penetrate the canopy to reach the forest floor. The lack of sunlight leads to a paucity of herbaceous and shrubby plants that provide habitat or browse for herbivores such as deer.

It is obvious when we make the transition into an old growth forest. We notice lots of shrubs such as the false azalea, blueberry, and devils club along with ferns and their allies. Trees are of different age and height classes leading to a multi-layered canopy. Some of the trees are too large to hug with a diameter-at-breast-height or DBH of 30-inches. Nurse logs and snags are abundant, on the order of dozens per acre.

Old growth forests of several hundred years or more have a certain spacing between trees, perhaps 20 feet between each large tree, encompassing up to 400-600 trees per acre. In comparison, a second-growth forest will have several thousand trees per acre. Spacing is mere inches or only a few feet between each tree, leading to the lack of understory and little habitat for forest-dwellers. 95% of the forests in the lower-48 have been cut.

During the decades of the 60’s to 90’s, foresters bragged about more trees growing in America than at any point in our history. That is a true statement, but what is not mentioned is that the Department of Agriculture manages trees like crops and often have a mono-culture of single-species plots, leading to a much less bio-diverse ecosystem. Species such as the marbled murrelet and spotted owl were listed as threatened or endangered of extinction. Court injunctions followed and tough times for loggers because the industry saw it cheaper to ship raw logs and jobs overseas. Management strategies and forestry practices have changed for the better...

I spot a family of woodpeckers nesting in a large snag. The sapsuckers were busy flying to and fro to feed the noisy young inside of the tree. The sallying forth for arthropods such as flies and moths was entertaining as we rested to catch our breath about half-way up the 367 stairs.

At the El Capitan Caves, we are greeted by two National Forest Service rangers.

We learn about speleothems or stalactites and stalagmites and how they are formed. A graphic was passed around with the chemical equation for the process: Ca2 + 2HCO3 CO2 + CaCO3 + H2O.

A popular shot for photographers is the sign at the entrance to the caves. It reads: “EL CAPITAN CAVE. Danger! Hazardous conditions exist such as falling rocks, unstable footing, deep and sudden pits and sudden flooding. Cavers should be experienced and prepared with numerous light sources, technical climbing gear and survival gear.”

Our National Forest Service guides pass around some interesting photographs HERE

Saturday | June 25th

We lift anchor at 0600 and motor a few nautical miles to Ketchikan for disembarkation at 0830. We bid a fond farewell to our old friends and shipmates. It has been a week-long voyage but when we recollect all of the memories, it seems as if we were together for a much longer period of time. We have experienced so much with all of our senses.

After a long and hard push to clean the ship from top to bottom, we wait for our new passenger friends and shipmates to board the M/V Wilderness Discoverer at 1630 hours.

All of us take turns to show guests to their cabins. We meet folks in the lounge for appetizers and “welcome aboard” drinks.

The captain, expedition leader, chief engineer and hotel manager each give a brief introduction to ship-living. We are on our way north up and around Prince of Wales Island.

This evening several of our guest passengers assemble in the lounge and play music. Friends are made rapidly and much merriment ensues.There are suggestions that our company buy some instruments for the vessels night entertainment, such as a Latin percussion box drum and a mid-level guitar, such as a Yamaha or “Ibanez”. Why not add tambourines, shakers with rice, recorders, etc?

Too much fun at night might lead to some weary adventure-seekers during the daytime, so let’s get some rest!

 

Thursday | June 23

YES BAY

“INTO THE SUBLIME”

Rainy day in the upper reaches of Yes Bay. In the morning, I lead a rainforest walk described as a “fast, technical hike”. We land at the dock of the Yes Bay Lodge, a comfortable fishing lodge with beautiful cabins overlooking the bay and Wolverine River.

We follow the river about 1.5 miles up to McDonald Lake where a forest service cabin lies on a tiny island. All of us are sopping wet from the overhanging vegetation and have mud covering our shoes, but we are happy to be in the verdant riparian corridor.

The trail is actually quite technical with lots of slippery roots and rocks, turns and short climbs up and down along the river.

 

We finally arrive at Lake McDonald and meet some folks renting the Forest Service cabin. They travelled from the draught-ridden state of Texas. They love the verdant countryside and the excellent fishing opportunities. We also meet a couple of forest service rangers that have orange inflatable kayaks for patrolling the shoreline.

On our way back, we pass a couple of fly fisherman and later at the dock, see deep-sea fisherman returning with King Salmon, lingcod, greenling, rockfish and halibut. Many guests at the lodge do catch and release, but several pay the significant cost of shipping ($250, minimum) the fish home.

 

In the afternoon, I lead four guests on a quiet kayak up the fiord. The only sound is paddle strokes, the occasional cry of an eagle or call of a thrush. The water is as smooth as glass, except for the tiny concentric circles that emanate from the light, falling rain. This is as close as one can get to perfection…for entering into the sublime—the heart of the Wilderness.

 

Late in the evening, we send off more than a half dozen double kayaks and 4 stand-up paddleboarders for an after-dinner paddle. The steady drizzle did not deter anyone today, nor did it dampen the spirit of the gung-ho snorkelers. The twin hot tubs on the back of the 300 deck were in full use throughout the day and evening.

Wednesday | June 15

Patterson Bay &  Baranof Island

Everybody onboard is excited and express how their vacation has far exceeded their expectations.

Today is a fabulous day for a kayak, and I have the privilege of leading a small group.  There is so much to see and so much to explore in this pristine wilderness area on South Baranof Island.

 

Following are a few notes jotted-down in my “rite-in-the-rain” waterproof journal:  “During the last mile or so of my kayak I was pondering how it is possible that each and every day seems to top the last day in terms of excitement.  I have often heard folks say that they don’t understand how we can possibly have a better day than the day we just had, and yet, invariably, it happens…day, after day, after day.”

“Undoubtedly, each day brings newness and surprises.  Due to the small size of the ship and our collective enthusiasm for being where we are, we have ample opportunities to get to know our fellow travelers.  Stories are swapped in the lounge, at the dinner table, in the hot tubs or out on the viewing decks.  Everybody seems to be relaxed, in a mood for a great time and certainly not caught up with appearances.  Preconceived ideas are dropped from our minds and we allow ourselves to get lost in each and every moment”

“After a certain amount of time hanging-out and getting to know each other, it seems as if we all become exposed to some kind of magic potion that gives us the capacity to be more receptive to the beauty and the power of the place that surrounds us.”

“Certainly we forget unimportant things like what day of the week it is, have little interest in current events in the world and have little time to think about what the boss back home might be thinking.  We let go of all worrisome, nagging doubts and become connected to something greater.  Is it possible that we are absolutely “in the present”?  Have we all arrived at the state-of-being where all that matters is the here and now? I am certain that a significant transformation takes place.”

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