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Friday | June 24

A misty day in Misty Fiords National Monument

As we circumnavigate Revillagigedo Island, it is evident that we are in a temperate rainforest. The clouds create wreaths around each and every mountain. Some clouds rise up like the fumaroles of the geothermal vent area in Yellowstone National Park. Eagles are omnipresent on tree tops and snags, awaiting an opportunity to capture an unsuspecting fish just below the surface of the fiords.

Wednesday | June 22

Wrangell is a good day for us guides. Our usual 12 to 14-hour day is cut down to only 10 or so hours. We work on projects and accompany guests on walking tours. We enjoy two hours of our own time in town to visit a coffee shop or a trip to the library.

My favorite spot is a toss-up between Chief Shakes Tribal House or the Nolan Center Museum. I get great vibes from the totem poles and absolutely love the performance by singers and dancers at the tribal house.

The Nolan Center is where I can duck my head into the bookstore and peruse good books and interact with visitors and staff.

Just after lunch, Luis and Justin, our chefs, have a fine time cleaning two garbage cans worth of Dungeness Crab on the dock below the main pier in Wrangell. We are excited about our dinner later tonight!

Kids in town sell garnets that come from a local spot in the mountains. The Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts benefit from the proceeds. It’s fun interacting with the kids that are hawking the garnets at the base of the pier.

Tonight it is Bar Trivia Quiz night w/ guides Kim and Megan. Most of the questions concern natural history facts. Some pertain to ship statistics such as: “How long is the vessel?” Answer: 170 feet.

“Geez”, I say to a fellow guest, “that sure is a small area to live in for 60 some odd passenger-guests and 26 crew.” That is 57 yards, the equivalent of a long field-goal in American football. We are 38 feet wide or almost 13 yards.

I start thinking of the size of my home. The crew quarters cabin I live in is 4 steps long by two steps wide. The bathroom or “head” is a place where if you put your arms akimbo, they hit walls no matter which way you turn. Sitting on the “royal throne”, shaving and showering can be done all at once…that way you don’t miss any wildlife or scenery highlights out on the decks!

Our maximum speed is not much more than 9 knots or 10mph…the speed of a bicyclist at a leisurely pace. We are anchored more than half the week, i.e. we are motoring about 10 hours or 100 miles a day. That’s less than 2 miles per day per passenger. The large cruise ships travel at least 18 hours a day and cover a much longer distance, from Seattle, Washington to Ketchikan, Sitka, Juneau, Glacier Bay and/or Skagway and all the way back down in 7 days. That’s close to 2000 nautical miles and at least 4 full days out of the week motoring 24/7.

Tuesday | June 21

Happy Summer Solstice, Everybody!

I am happy to be leading an all-day kayak trip with only 5 takers (hiking options are almost too good to pass up). We decide to circumnavigate Ruth Island in Thomas Bay. Thomas Bay is less than 15 miles northeast of Petersburg, Alaska.

The paddling affords one with the most serene moments. For me, kayaking is a primal urge. It’s very representative of the ineffable nature of time. The present moment is occupied with movement. Your eyes and paddle strokes look toward a nearby or distant future. You get into a pace and try and maintain speed and direction toward a waypoint. Behind you a wake is left, ripples on an endless sea. Your path has been etched upon the canvass of your ever-evolving soul.

 

Indeed, a paddling trip in the Alaskan Wilderness is a most enriching experience that will fill you with a youthful vigor that will last a long time. Memories are made with each paddle stroke because all of our senses are engaged. Our blood is transporting carbohydrates and oxygen to our thirsty tissues. We are keen on finding the perfect stroke and pace. Is there any outdoor sport more ideal than kayaking?

I give thanks for the Greenlander Inuit and the Aleuts for inventing the perfect craft 1000s’s of years ago.

We paddle in a counter-clockwise direction and have many highlights today.

We see Sitka black-tailed deer...

A Mink...

Not to mention a baby seal hauled out on rocks, moose scat, a bald eagles nest, family of merganser ducks, and fields of colorful flowers dancing in a breeze beneath a cerulean sky.

About half-way through our trip, I notice on my map a very narrow opening to what looks like a lake. It happens to be a marine lake that is accessible only at a high tide! However, we are not sure that we can make it through the very narrow passageway.

We paddle up and discover walls thick with mussels and a channel bottom covered with sea anemones.

We park the kayaks on a mud beach nearby and are able to walk at the high-tide line to the 500 meter long lake. The rainforest around it is very lush.

We name the lake “Silver” for our silver anniversary couple!

Back on the ship everyone is pumped-up from so many adventures to share with fellow shipmates. We lift anchor and motor past the town of Petersburg (population 3600) and enjoy the Summer Solstice sunset while transiting the Wrangell Narrows on our way to our anchorage near Wrangell.

 

Saturday | June 18

Juneau

I update the map and wildlife list for our week-long voyage.  I draw a profile of the intertidal zone (ITZ) on the grease board and have a couple of guests help me look-up a few of the creatures seen during our snorkeling session yesterday.

 

Friday | June 17  

“I DATED YOUR SISTER!”

This is what I jokingly tell my guests on my 2nd small-boat tour after meeting Tongass National Forest wilderness ranger Solan Jensen.  We could see his food hanging in a tree above his camp adjacent to where we drop off guests for a low-tide circumambulation. Solan greets us and introduces us to fellow ranger Iris Neary. I knew Solans’ name had sounded familiar!  I met his sister back in the mid-90’s in Juneau.  We worked for the Glacier Bay Tours and Cruises (bankrupt since 2006) and I have not had the good fortune to work with her since that bygone era.

 

Aleria now works as the NOAA marine mammal stranding coordinator for the Alaska region.  Her brother Solan is an expert naturalist and is working another year as a kayak ranger.  One of our guests recognized Solan as the naturalist he had on a vacation to the Antarctic region years earlier.  During the northern hemisphere winter (Austral summer), Solan works for Quark Expeditions.  Feels like a small world today!

We tour the biologically diverse tide-pools.  Folks are mesmerized watching the standing waves of the outgoing tide that passes through this narrow part of the fiord.

Later we cruise up to the Dawes Glacier, a tide-water glacier that discharges 1000’s of tons of ice each day during calving events.  Harbor seals “surf” the bergs as they are carried away from the 250-foot wall of ice on the outgoing tide.

Thursday | June 16

Red Bluff Bay

Snorkeling Expedition and Cruising for Marine Mammals

An early morning scout in a small boat to the entrance to Red Bluff proves fruitful.  I find two excellent sites to lead my group of snorkelers.  What I look for in a site is an area where tremendous amounts of water cycles by during the ebb and flow of tide-waters.  This is found at the entrance to bays and headlands in larger channels.  One of the exposed rocky reefs is covered with the scrotum-like bodies of bright orange sea anemones.

Back in the ship I help the snorkelers get into their 6 mm wetsuits and ask them to carry boots, gloves, hood, snorkel, mask and fins into the waiting mono-hull. We head to the outside of the bay and land on a Caribbean-like small, white-sand beach! Starfish (not really fish, better to call them sea stars!) are everywhere, exposed by an extremely low tide.

I lead everyone across a small bay through thick kelp forests of Laminaria and Nereocystis to more sheer walls of intertidal goodness.  Every square inch is covered with moving and attached creatures vying for a niche in these biologically productive waters.  I’d have to say, of all the scuba diving and snorkeling I’ve the years in Alaska, this day has to top them all for pure fun.

On our way back to the ship, I ask our driver Jen to pull over toward the shore (where a patch of snow comes down close to waters edge) for a group photo.  Yes, we are all certifiably crazy.

We feel hypo-thermic and take the opportunity to become hyper-thermic in one of our two hot tubs at the stern of the 300-level deck.  Oh, the tingling sensations of capillary re-fill were numbing.

In the afternoon, we enjoy spotting several humpback whales, two of them “logging” at the surface for a mid-day nap.

Dozens of Steller’s Sea Lions swim toward our ship from a haul-out site on the Brothers Islands.  They are very playful and curious and we excited to snap a few pictures of these animals that are Federally listed as “threatened” with extinction.

Tuesday | June 14

Big Port Walter & Baranof Island

Today I have the pleasure of leading a half-day hike in the dazzling rainforest at Lover's Cove in Big Port Walter.

Check out the video below:

Most of the hike is bush-whacking through 5 to 10-foot tall salmon-berry shrubs.  Huge sitka spruce and western hemlock trees towered above us.  Rows of large trees grow on fallen nurse logs as we follow a meandering salmon stream.  

We find fresh bear scat full of teeth and hooves of a sitka black-tailed deer.

People are in a Zen-like state of awe.  While snacking, I address our group of intrepid travelers and say:  “This is it folks…the way the rest of the world used to be.  Prime salmon spawning habitat beneath surrounds us on all sides.  Streams in California used to be chock-full of salmon with grizzly bears feeding on them.  Now the streams are mostly empty and degraded.  The last brown bear in California was shot in 1924.  Extirpated…extinct.”

We have time for a group photo in front of a fallen giant and head back to the shore where a waiting small boat takes us back to the comforts of the “mother ship”.

Tonight we cruise a couple of dozen nautical miles to the north in Chatham Strait to another beautiful fiord.  Guests and crew come out on the decks for the ever-changing scenery and a chance to see wildlife.

The lighting, coupled with the fresh smells and the sounds of waterfalls cascading down the cliffs is very stimulating.  The gentle hum of the engine cruising at 4 to 5-knots is rather soothing.  Coming into a bay or fiord for the first time is sublime.  So new, so fresh…the water looks like oil, especially the reflections of sky and clouds.  The smallest waves create oblong circles reflecting blue sky and streams by like a moving Monet painting.

The songs of the crepuscular animals—the thrushes--serenade us as we move deeper into Patterson Bay to our anchorage.

Monday | June 13

Good birding day in town as we explore totem park and carving shed.  Some of the bird friends we saw and heard in the small town town today:  barn swallow, violet-green swallow, orange-crowned warbler, song sparrow, pine siskin, red crossbill, mourning dove, and lots of eagles and ravens.

Sidney, the young teenager niece of Les our guide leads an informative tour along with James the wood-carver.  We hear a lot of “learning by doing” from lead guide Les.  Les is very animated and says that a Tlingit speaker that has his hands tied behind his back does not have the ability to speak since they like to do so using their hands.

Sunday | June 12

We awoke in El Capitan Passage surrounded by breathtaking Tongass National Forest and then treked up to El Capitan Cave, where 400,000-year-old bones have been found. We had a great tour with National Forest Service Rangers Chad Bevenger and Cherie Barth.  Cherie does a terrific job of interpreting the highlights of the cave.  Guests enjoy donning their helmets and flashlights for the tour inside of the karst caves. El Capitan Cave is the longest mapped cave in Alaska.

Check out the video of our tour!

Where is gMack now? InnerSea Discoveries Expedition Week 6

It has been an exciting week on the InnerSea Discoveries Expedition Click Links Below to read daily updates from Week 6 of the Trip:

June 4-10th, 2011

 

Saturday | June 4th

Turnover Day

Sunday | June 5th

Tracy Arm

Monday | June 6th

Baird Glacier

Tuesday | June 7th

Cascade Creek

Wednesday |June 8th

Gedney Island Day 1

 

Thursday | June 9th

Gedney Island Day 2

 

Friday | June 10th

Back to Ship

 

 

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