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Wednesday | July 13

Ideal Cove, Frederick Sound

“Live each day as you would climb a mountain. An occasional glance towards the summit puts the goal in mind. Many beautiful scenes can be observed from each new vantage point. Climb steadily. Slowly, enjoy each passing moment, and the view from the summit will serve as a fitting climax to the journey.” –Joe Porcino

We awake to another hot and sunny day. We are anchored at the mouth of the mighty Stikine River, the longest fast-flowing, un-dammed navigable river in North America. One can motor upstream 170 river-miles to Telegraph Creek.

The glacier and snow-clad Coast Range is stunning in the morning sunshine. I lead a group of kayakers into Ideal Cove adjacent to the 17-mile wide Stikine River delta. Ice-bergs that discharged out of the fiord from the Le Conte Glacier are a brilliant blue against the coniferous-green backdrop of the rainforest.

Port Houghton lies just east of Frederick Sound and the Five Fingers Lighthouse. We go in for sunset and anchorage in Sanborn Arm.

I take a scout boat up Port Houghton Inlet to investigate landings for tomorrows’ hikes. The lighting is ineffable, scintillating and bordering on phantasmagorical. Cloudscapes, landscapes and seascapes are ever-changing and stimulate the brain.

The centuries-old trees in the old-growth forests tower high above the estuarine channel. We spot 100’s of salmon leaping out of the water in anticipation of the spawning to take place in natal streams.

The colorful clouds at sunset are reflected in the still waters. Moments like these are so precious.

Nature can reveal truths to those that have an open mind and heart. Of course, being in the right place at the right time helps.

Thanks to Captain Marce for choosing to bring us here!

Wednesday | July 6

“We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.” --Aldo Leopold

Onboard the vessel right after breakfast, we have a couple of Tlingit guests give an informal lecture with songs and a “show and tell” session in the lounge.

We learn many fascinating things about the dynamic Tlingit culture that has thrived here for a very long time.

This is followed by excursions to see petroglyphs, a performance at Chief Shakes lodge and jet boat tours up the diverse Stikine River.

Many folks make the trip to the Nolan Center and purchase natural and cultural history books in the bookstore, among other gift items.

Tuesday | July 5

“O’ Earth, What changes hast thou seen?” --Alfred Lord Tennyson

We offer several activities for guests, including paddle boarding, kayaking and a couple of different hikes, including all-day and half-day hikes. I co-lead a kayak along the lee side of Ruth Island and later a half-day hike up the Patterson River. There are lots of beautiful, verdant plants to point-out to my fellow adventure-seekers.

We see bunchberry dogwood, false lily-of-the-valley, skunk cabbage, salmonberry, several species of fungus and many other herbs, shrubs and trees.

 

Our hike is along ATV trails. We see evidence of old cabins and (hard-to-believe) some dung from cows! Apparently this is not part of Tongass National Forest. Our scatological discovery-of-the-day were moose pellets. I pick-up a hand-full and interpret the fascinating life history of this huge Cervid species: “The moose get quite large, males up to 1600 pounds and females up to 1300 pounds.”

“Moose are herbivorous, feeding on deciduous trees such as willow and birch. Moose will eat as much as 40 pounds of willow leaves in a day, enabling the growth of huge antlers.”

“Antlers are shed in the late fall, early winter. Males are solitary except for the rut. The rut is in the fall. This is when the testosterone in the males is at its peak. Males battle it out for access to females. Subordinate male bulls are sometimes referred to as “sneaker” males for sneaking into a harem while the dominant male is off fighting another male.”

We enjoy the riparian corridor adjacent to the Patterson River. It would take all day to follow the trail up to the Patterson Glacier.

Rumor has it that our company dropped-off several kayaks by helicopter on the lakeshore just a couple of miles from the face of the glacier. One group this summer has made it all the way up with the owner of the company leading the intrepid hikers. It was a strenuous adventure of over 10 miles.

Back aboard the WND, we traverse the famous Wrangell Narrows that separates Mitkof and Kupreanof Islands. Anchorage is just a few miles from Wrangell, which lies near the 17-mile wide delta of the mighty Stikine River.